Borthwen beach at Rhoscolyn — Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0
Rhoscolyn is Holy Island with the volume turned down — a scattered coastal parish two miles south of Trearddur where the road runs out at Borthwen, a near-perfect horseshoe of sand sheltered by islets and headlands. The swimming is as good as Anglesey offers, the sailing-dinghy-and-picnic atmosphere is timeless, and the crowds rarely match the beauty because parking is limited (a field car park operates in season — arrive early or walk in along the coast).
Rhoscolyn’s headland is many people’s favourite mile of the Anglesey Coastal Path: sea arches and stacks below, St Gwenfaen’s holy well on the cliff top (its waters traditionally cure troubles of the mind), the white beacon on Rhoscolyn Head, and views south across to Snowdonia and Llŷn. The circuit from Borthwen around the head and back by the church of St Gwenfaen is an easy, unforgettable hour and a half.
The parish pub, the White Eagle, is a destination in its own right — a smart dining pub with a big terrace looking towards the mountains, deservedly busy in season (book). Rhoscolyn otherwise offers little and needs nothing: bring what you need, take everything away, and leave the quiet as you found it. It pairs naturally with Trearddur Bay for a full south-island beach day — or see Dog Friendly for the winter version, when dogs and walkers have Borthwen to themselves.
Facilities at Borthwen are deliberately minimal — no shop, seasonal toilets at best, and that’s the covenant: bring supplies, leave nothing. The lanes in are single-track with passing places; summer weekends reward a 9am arrival or the walk in from Trearddur (an hour of headland glory). Swimmers: the bay shelves gently and the islets break most swell, but respect the outer channels’ currents. Winter gives the whole horseshoe to you, the oystercatchers and the light.
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